Wine Tasting in Wisconsin

So when most people say 'Wisconsin,' they immediately think of cheese, cows, or the Packers. While visiting the Midwest for a family event, I discovered that wine grapes do indeed grow in the frozen tundra. With the help of the University of Minnesota at Minnesota-Twin Cities researchers have created wine grapes that survive and thrive the cold-climate conditions. Researchers also work with farmers in the Northern Midwest to help identify and enhance the unique characteristics & components of the new grape varieties.

My first Wisconsin winery was Lautenbach's Orchard Country. They make 2 Estate single varietals, 7 other single varietals sourced from other local vineyards, and 19 more wines fermented with a mix of local cherry or apple juices. This pays homage to the great local cherry farms that dot the farms in the surrounding area. This includes the Lautenbach's fruit orchard that sits alongside their beautiful vineyard rows that can be seen from the road.

There were 3 standouts from my tasting here: Audrey Grace - 2015 (link), Ashlyn Sophia - 2015 (link) & St. Pepin - 2016 (link). All of these provided great examples of the grape varieties specifically bred for this climate. As with other examples of the wines of the Midwest, they are unique unto themselves and not your typical CA cabernet flavor profile but wines of complexity. Not all of the wines I tried were 'dialed in' and are a work in progress, but this process is the same for all great agricultural research adjust one season at a time.

Something that I saw for the first time, is a carryover from the cherry juice pressing, is the use of rice hulls with a bladder press. I found this strange, as the wisdom imparted to me was that rice hulls are notto be used with bladder presses, as they are likely to pierce the bladder. They are often used in a typical basket press, as winemakers will often add the rice hulls to the grapes providing a path for the pressed juice to run, preventing it from being re-absorbed. The winemaker at Lautenbach's Orchard Country told me they use wild rice hulls which are softer & that he uses a slightly tougher bladder bag because of the orchard fruit pressing he does.

The country store they run had a huge variety of Juices, Jams, Pies, Preserves, Butters, Wines and other items all based on the wonderful estate grown fruits. If you are in the area, I highly recommend you stop into this establishment and enjoy a great bottle of wine & snacks on the patio overlooking the farm.

The second winery I visited was Door 44 in Sturgeon Bay, a second label & sister location to Parallel 44 Vineyard & Winery located in Kewaunee, WI. The later was just too far to visit in the time I had available, but I was turned onto this winery by the Wisconsin Wine Guy when I posed the question on Instagram. I asked about who/where I should visit and why. He had lots to say about the single varietal wines & great staff at this location. Since it was not far from where I was to be camping, it was a Win / Win when he suggested it. I got to get out of mosquito-ville & search out good wine.

When I arrived at the large red building, I was unsure if I found the winery or a country store (one is next door). We arrived with our party and wandered inside, I took this time to look through all the memorabilia lining the walls & antique winemaking equipment on display. It was a very nice location, with a good flow and circular tasting bar at the center of the room. There were a few small displays and a small covered area around the sink, otherwise the bar was free from items that might distract. Upon walking up to the bar, the attendant let me know about the Monthly 'additional sample' that I would receive for free regardless, and encouraged our group members to select other items to try. While we were discussing the menu of options, stemless glassware bearing the Door 44 logo was slipped onto the table in front of me and a menu was provided. The attendant very nicely explained the tasting options and we discussed my wish to taste as many single varietals as possible as well as my interest in the grapes from the University of Minnesota. 

After much discussion about the production method of the sparkling wines offered, the string of genetic material with local wine grape farmers to help propagate the Frontenac Gris strain that does extremely well on their property, and the difficulties presented by Wisconsin winemaking -vs- winemaking in Central California. From trouble ripening grapes to winter kill off from cold to spring frosts, the northern  midwestern US winemakers and wine-grape farmers face obstacles that coastal influenced area just do not have to consider. This was also the first time that I knowingly had post-fermented carbonated wine. The bubbles were noticeably bigger than bottle fermented sparkling wines, but the wine was just as crisp and fruity as a normal white wine, while missing the characteristic brioche notes of lees aged wines.

There was not a bad wine in the extended tasting, so here is the lineup I had this day:

• Door 44 - Bubbler - N.V. (link)

• Door 44 - Sparkler (link)

• Door 44 - Washington Island (link)

• Door 44 - Red Door (link)

• Door 44 - F2 (link)

• Door 44 - Cellar Door (link)

• Parallel 44 - Frozen Tundra - 2016 (link)

• Parallel 44 - Harvest Moon - 2016 (link)

• Door 44 - M (link)

• Parallel 44 - Reserve Petite Pearl - 2016 (link)

• Parallel 44 - Ice Wine (link)